Travel notes, city by city.

Nice: the soft launch into vacation mode

We started in Nice, which was the perfect introduction to the French Riviera.

The beaches are rocky, emphasis on ROCKY, so grab a lounger, an umbrella at Ruhl Plage and a towel and settle in.

Our ideal beach order became:

spritz → watermelon → swim → salad → repeat.

Very strenuous. One of my favorite lunch spots in Nice was Le Plongeoir, which is literally perched out over the Mediterranean on a giant rock. The views were INSANE: blue water, the beach, and that perfect Riviera sunshine. We ordered the watermelon drinks, iced coffees, and so many good apps to share (my favorite way to eat on vacation). Everything just felt so quintessentially summer in the South of France.

Back to the cities

St. Tropez: beach clubs, dancing & people watching

We stayed in Ramatuelle, which honestly looked so much like California wine country that I kept almost forgetting where we were.

It was close to all the beach clubs, but about a 20-minute drive into the harbor and main town.

We did Gigi, Nikki Beach, and Shellona: where we waited approximately 90 minutes to see Solomon and somehow made it all the way to the front of the DJ booth.

We bought a few drinks in GA, met some friends, and ended up getting invited into VIP.

Euro Summer math.

For dinner, Noto was such a major highlight we went twice. The lemon ravioli with the white sauce was that good, and the people watching along the harbor by the yachts was even better. They had live music and singers both evenings we went.

The markets were also a favorite: jewelry, linen clothes, bags, fresh fruit, olives, and lots of little things I absolutely did not need but wanted to get as souvineers.

And we became obsessed with eating tomatoes with balsamic. Somehow everything tastes better when you're eating it in France.

Back to the cities

Monaco: Lotta glam, little chaotic

We stayed at the Fairmont Grand Hotel Monte Carlo, which puts you right in the middle of everything.

We spent the day shopping (Monaco was easily my best shopping destination) and did lunch at AMU and La Note Bleue on the beach. Buddha-Bar was such a vibe, we barely left the Fairmont Grand Monaco the whole time because everything we wanted was right there. We didn’t even realize until later that lunch at AMU, Buddha-Bar, and Nikki Beach for pool drinks were all part of our hotel. Honestly, we accidentally picked the perfect place to stay.

Then came the Monte Carlo Casino at night. Important PSA: bring your passport. Also, we quickly learned that you can't just take photos everywhere inside the casino. The Monaco Transer Drama Of course, no EuroSummer trip is complete without a little transportation drama. We had a Naveco, a transfer company, booked to take us from Monaco to St. Tropez, and somehow I managed to book our pickup for 2:00 AM instead of 14:00 (2 PM). By the time we realized my very obvious mistake, Naveco couldn’t provide the van we had originally booked for us, so Joslin had to come in clutch and rent a car (she requested stick shift of course) and drove us from Monaco to St. Tropez herself. Thankfully, we were able to get our money back from Naveco, and had snacks for the roadtrip, so at least there was a happy ending. And honestly? It made for a pretty good travel story getting lost on the hairpin turns driving in circles around Monaco until we found our way to the highway.

Back to the cities

Tuscany: Slow mornings & late nights

Then we headed to Tuscany for the wedding and stayed at Castiglion del Bosco, a Rosewood Hotel.

Castiglion del Bosco →

The mornings were almost comically peaceful, hundreds of deer wandering around the property, cappuccinos every day, the infinity pool and the kind of Tuscan landscape that makes you want to dramatically stare into the distance.

And then...

We partied until 3AM on the dance floor the night before and night of the wedding. Which honestly feels like the perfect balance.

Back to the cities

Mykonos: One more drink era

Mykonos was pure chaos in the best possible way.

Beach clubs. Dancing on tables. Running in the ocean in our outfits. Walking the harbor with a gyro. Little Venice. Evil eye shopping. Greek salads and tzatziki every single day. I also became obsessed with the Greek grocery stores! Everything felt so inexpensive compared to home, and we loved picking up food from the markets. 180° Sunset Bar was one of those nights that felt straight out of a movie. We sat on the ground eating dinner as the sun went down, with that traditional Italian song playing in the background, and somehow our quiet sunset dinner slowly turned into a full-blown club. The funniest part was “zooming out” when we went to the bathrooms and realizing we were literally in the middle of a party at the very tip of a cliff, overlooking all of Mykonos. The views were absolutely insane, one of those wait, where are we right now?! moments.

One of my favorite little Mykonos moments was stopping at Negretta, a tiny dive bar with the ocean crashing right alongside where we were sitting.

Spritzes and espresso martinis to-go.

And obviously, Scorpios Sunday deserves its own award.

Scorpios Mykonos → If you go, stay for sunset and be prepared to dance. Their Sunday music rituals are part of their regular programming. One of the most spontaneous nights of the trip was Alemagou Monday. We hadn't necessarily planned for it to become a thing, but that's kind of how Mykonos works, you hear where everyone is going, get dressed, and see what happens dancing under the stars at Ftelia Beach.

There was something about that night that felt so quintessentially Mykonos, no over-planned itinerary, just good music, friends, drinks and a “we're here, so let's make the most of it” mentality.

This was one of those nights that wasn't necessarily the plan... and ended up being one of the memories I talk about the most.

Back to the cities

Capri: Boat day in heaven

We took the ferry from Naples to Capri after Mykonos and stayed at Hotel Serene. The hotel itself was a positive experience and had a great breakfast included, although we did have an unfortunate mold situation in our bathroom so I'm giving it an honest review rather than pretending everything was perfect.

CAPRI TIP: Pay the €20 per bag for the hotel porters to take your luggage from the port. It is SO worth it.

Otherwise you're hauling your bags up the funicular and through Capri, and after traveling all day, that's the last thing you want to do.

Capri has incredible designer shopping, and there is a gelato spot near our hotel where you can literally smell the warm cones from the street.

But my biggest recommendation?

Hire a captain for a boat day.

It was one of the splurges of the trip and completely worth it.

We also had an expensive lunch at Il Riccio. Gorgeous? Yes. Worth it for me as a vegetarian? Not really. It's heavily seafood-focused. The dessert room is absolutely wild - basically every sweet you could imagine.

For a more casual meal, Casa Palomino had an amazing lemon ravioli.

Back to the cities

My Positano Recommendations

Why Positano is different: Positano is iconic- a vertical village spilling down to the sea. Chic hotels, colorful umbrellas, with romantic winding staircases that all lead up or down the cliff. Expect stairs and expect to fall in love with them and the Porters who carry your bags up and down said stairs.

Ferry Capri to Positano (~1 hr). Airbnb check-in at Kings View: the views are exactly what you imagine.

Dinner: Lo Guarracino cliffside with classic Positano pastas (& Vegetarian options!)

Dinner: Miskaki Sushi: Positano’s Japanese spot for when you’re over pasta (just for a sec). They have an entire vegetarian menu with gyoza, crispy rice, and specialty rolls.

After: Don’t Worry Bar at Le Sirenuse Hotel: a speakeasy hidden inside the most famous hotel in town.

Aldo at Le Sirense Hotel: Lots of fish options but a few vegetarian pastas & apps.

Go Out: Music On The Rocks, Positano’s legendary cliffside nightclub.

I don't think I can overstate this:

Positano is one of my all-time favorite places on the planet.

You can walk or take a water taxi almost everywhere, and every single corner looks like it was designed to be a screensaver.

Our Airbnb was right above Café Positano with a balcony overlooking everything.

Again: pay the porters to take your bags.

Cars can't drive right up to most places, and there are A LOT of stairs.

Then spend a day at Arienzo Beach Club.

This was my favorite beach club of the entire trip.

Book online ahead of time and no need to splurge for whichever row is closest to the water.

We had lunch, a bottle of champagne per pair, float tubes, lemoncello and spent the day swimming and collecting little pieces of beach glass.

Arienzo Beach Club →

Back to the cities

Paris: The Grand Finale

We saved Paris for the end, and I think that was the perfect way to finish.

I walked. I ate. I shopped. I drank wine. I wandered.

And I used ChatGPT to create a walking tour and tell me which Metro lines to take but I made it Real Housewives of Paris.

My prompt was essentially:

“I'm visiting Paris and want you to create a self-guided walking tour through the places I'm visiting. Give me the most interesting, surprising and slightly gossipy fun facts about each place, tell me what to look for while I'm there, and give me the easiest Metro route between stops. Write it like I'm on a Real Housewives girls' trip: glamorous, entertaining, a little dramatic, but still historically accurate.”

Honestly? 10/10 travel hack.

And then we went to the Moulin Rouge, which was somehow my most underrated stop of the entire trip.

THE SHOW WAS SO MUCH FUN. Moulin Rouge →

Like, genuinely one of the best shows I've ever seen.

We grabbed a crepe afterward and ended the night watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle at midnight.

Then it was Paris → London Heathrow → San Diego.

And just like that... back to reality.

Back to the cities

Florence: Walkable Streets, Wine Windows, Shops & Pasta

Why Florence is a vibe: Florence is so walkable- you’ll stroll everywhere on cobblestone streets, pass Renaissance churches on accident, and pop into boutiques for bags and sandals you didn’t know you needed. Arrive in Rome (FCO) Follow the signs to the train station in Terminal 3 and took the Leonardo Express a smooth, non-stop ride that got me to Roma Termini in just 32 minutes. From there, try to catch the Frecciarossa high-speed train to get to the heart of Florence in 90 minutes. The Drama My 2 friend's checked bags got lost in their rebooked flights. I waited at the airport with them and we missed the last high speed train. There were limited options late at night, so we got to a smaller station on the local 3 hour train to Florence.

Shopping: Ponte Vecchio is the famous bridge lined with jewelry shops, boutiques, and artisan stalls. Even if you don’t buy anything, it’s an iconic stroll.

First Glass wine window ring the bell to get mini bottles to go or sit inside to get a glass, some AC and use the restroom.

Sunset: Piazzale Michelangelo - bring a bottle of wine, climb the stairs just above San Niccolò, and watch the sun hit the red rooftops.

Happy Hour Drinks: View on Art rooftop- great Duomo views, spritz in hand.

Dinner: Osteria Pastella - pasta tableside in a cheese wheel, so save your appetite!

Do the classics: Climb to the top of the Duomo, see the replica David at Piazza della Signoria, wander the tiny streets and find a wine window. take a pasta making class.

Vivoli Gelato was one of my favorite foodie stops, where I lined up early for their famous affogato: espresso poured over a scoop of creamy gelato & pistachios that tasted like absolute heaven in a cup.

Back to the cities

Capri: Lemon Groves, Beach Clubs & Warm Wedding Nights

Why Capri is different: Capri is magical. Think cliffside hotels with old-school glamour, blue grottos, hidden beaches, lemon trees everywhere, and family-run restaurants that have been around for generations. It’s smaller and more intimate than Positano. Capri is super chic but laid back if you know where to go.

Take the train to Naples (~2.5 hrs from Florence) Take ferry to Capri (~30 mins).

Shuttle to and from Hotel Weber Ambassador -classic cliffside spot with views of Marina Piccola.

Dinner: Da Paolino - the one with lemon trees everywhere. It’s so dreamy at night. Worth the late (11 PM) reservation.

Rooftop sunset at Luna Hotel, dinner at Pulalli - tiny terrace right next to Capri’s main piazza clock tower. Lemon risotto here is the move.

Take the chairlift from Anacapri up to Monte Solaro: the highest point on the island. It’s a peaceful 12-minute solo ride up in an open-air chair, gliding over lemon groves and terracotta rooftops with 360-degree views of the sea, cliffs, and boats below. At the top: Stunning panoramic views of the Faraglioni rocks, Mount Vesuvius, and the whole Bay of Naples and a row of cute little shops selling handmade sandals, ceramics, linen sets, and the best lemon-themed souvenirs

White Welcome Party: La Capannina - old-school Capri, tucked away in town, known for classic Capri bites like fried zucchini flowers and fresh local mozzarella. Wedding Day: La Zagara: In Anacapri (the quieter side of the island)- lush gardens, lanterns, the works. Capri knows how to do romance.

Capri Beach Clubs

Luigi Al Faraglioni

Luigi ai Faraglioni Beach Club: Family-run, blue and yellow umbrellas, right by the famous Faraglioni rocks. These clubs usually include your beach chair, umbrella, towel service, and sometimes a light lunch option like 60 Euro credit to the restaurant. Always check what’s included! Most spots serve up fresh salads, seafood pasta, or sandwiches, plus a bottle of local white wine or rosé is a must.

I had Spaghetti alla Nerano! It’s the iconic Capri (and Amalfi Coast) dish: spaghetti tossed with thinly sliced fried zucchini, fresh basil, lots of grated local cheese (usually provolone del Monaco or Parmigiano), and often finished with butter or a bit of the starchy pasta water for that silky, creamy texture.It was invented in the little village of Nerano (between Sorrento and Positano) and you’ll see it everywhere in Capri. Every beach club or family trattoria does their own twist, super simple, super fresh, super summer.

Bagni Tiberio

Bagni Tiberio: A bit more casual than Luigi - green umbrellas, an easy vibe. Free boat shuttles run to Marina Grande every 15 min. Order lunch at your sunbed and you’re living the dream. Fresh fruit, buckets of ice water, Peroni beer and panini sandwiches were our go to's for the day. We brought floats for relaxing in the Mediterranean sea.

Boat Day: Champagne, Saxophones & Too Much Pasta

One of the absolute highlights of the trip was our Boat Day- because Capri from the water is its own kind of magic. swim under the Faraglioni, pop prosecco, maybe see the Blue Grotto (touristy but iconic, bummed it was choppy so we couldn’t see it). We spent the day sunbathing, swimming through hidden coves, and anchoring off the coast for a long, way-too-big lunch at Conca del Sogno - a dreamy restaurant tucked into a secret cove near Nerano.

Here’s how it went down: We pulled up on our boat and they shuttled us in on a little dinghy -barefoot, salty hair, and me… with a barf bag in hand running to the bathroom. As I sat down and began nibbling on some bread I heard the server say family style? And before this sea sick girlie's Zofran dissolved under her tongue...we suddenly had platters of food- salads, appetizers, whole fish ...flying onto our table. Pasta? Of course! We had Spaghetti alle Nerano (the famous zucchini pasta), Spaghetti alle Vongole, tomato gnocchi, lobster linguine -because why choose just one? Everyone was slightly hungover, a little bit seasick, and 100% not ready for round two- until the surprise Limoncello show hit. The bride and groom had secretly arranged a whole scene: A saxophone player appeared out of nowhere and started playing Italian remixes right in the middle of lunch. The staff came out with whistles, headbands, and began stretching their bodies for the massive pitcher of Limoncello, they were about to force us to drink. Then they brought out champagne guns- literally spraying bubbles across our table down our throats while the entire restaurant cheered, filmed, & joined in clapping & dancing.

What started as “Should I just order a salad?” turned into a full-on dance floor. This day was proof that on the Amalfi Coast, you’re never too hungover for a Limoncello moment. If you’re planning your own boat day, Conca del Sogno is the move: arrive by boat, order too much pasta, and let the Amalfi Coast do the rest.

Back to the cities

Positano: Cliffside Views, Speakeasys & More Lemon Everything

Why Positano is different: Positano is iconic- a vertical village spilling down to the sea. Chic hotels, colorful umbrellas, more bustling than Capri, more lively than Florence. Expect stairs and expect to fall in love with them and the Porters who carry your bags up and down said stairs.

Ferry Capri to Positano (~1 hr). Airbnb check-in at Kings View: the views are exactly what you imagine.

Dinner: Lo Guarracino cliffside with classic Positano pastas (& Vegetarian options!)

Dinner: Miskaki Sushi: Positano’s Japanese spot for when you’re over pasta (just for a sec). They have an entire vegetarian menu with gyoza, crispy rice, and specialty rolls.

After: Don’t Worry Bar at Le Sirenuse Hotel: a speakeasy hidden inside the most famous hotel in town.

Go Out: Music On The Rocks, Positano’s legendary cliffside nightclub.

Chez Black- iconic beachfront pizza + pasta. Must dress nice.

Hike the Path of the Gods: epic cliff views, 3+ hour hike. (We didn’t have time.)

Arienzo Beach Club: Cliff Jumps, Limoncello + a Wild Show

If you’re in Positano, Arienzo Beach Club is the spot for a true Amalfi Coast beach day. Unlike the more polished main beach in town, Arienzo feels a bit more local - a pretty pebbly cove tucked just past the cliffs, reachable by boat or a lot of steep steps. The beach itself is rocky (yes, bring sandals) and full of hidden treasures: we spent forever picking up tiny bits of beach glass polished by the waves. And unlike some Amalfi beaches, Arienzo actually has waves that crash in… which felt so refreshing after days jumping into bodies of water.

We made a whole day of it- cliff jumping into the deep blue, sunbathing under orange umbrellas, sipping cold spritzes, popping bottles of Veuve, then regrouping for the famous Arienzo lunch. (Beach club day packages here usually include a reserved beach chair, umbrella, towel service, and a multi-course meal. Ours came with an appetizer, a main, and one bottle of rosè.)

But the real highlight? The Limoncello show. Picture this: Everyone at the club is a few spritzes deep, the DJ turns the music up, and the staff suddenly appears with my friends carrying huge signs, big frozen bottles of Limoncello. They picked my friends to be the stars- they had to sit in special beach chairs and hold up the signs while the beach club crew danced around them. Then… chaos. They poured cold Limoncello straight into their mouths, over their shoulders, down their backs, all over the chairs. Everyone on the beach was cheering, filming, chanting “Limooooooncello!” It turned into this hilarious, messy, over-the-top party moment right there on the pebbled beach… exactly what you want from a Positano beach club day.

By the time we packed up, we were sticky from the sun and Limoncello but zero regrets. If you want to get the full Amalfi vibe: jump off a cliff, swim it off, then let the beach club crew pour icy Limoncello all over you…because you’re only in Positano once.

Arienzo Tip: Reserve early (seats sell out fast), bring extra cash for boat taxis, and don’t wear anything you don’t want covered in Limoncello.

Back to the cities

Rome: Big, Bustling & All the BEST Food

Why Rome is different: Rome is big and full of huge piazzas, ancient ruins around every corner, buzzing local neighborhoods. It’s less walkable than Florence but so worth exploring. Pick a few areas to wander each day.

Ferry back to Naples then train to Rome (~1 hour).

Airbnb check-in: extra space, fridge for Aperol and snacks, more local vibe than a hotel.

Evening: Explore Trastevere- charming, boho neighborhood packed with bars, restaurants, cobblestone streets, and locals out late. This is where I stayed this time and enjoyed so much more than my first weekend trip here.

Breakfast near the Pantheon- stunning ancient temple, early morning = fewer crowds.

Hit the Trevi Fountain (early!) and the Spanish Steps- grab a coffee and people watch.

Travel Tip: Connect to the wifi outside of the designer stores to see where your crew is and ask Chat GPT to take you on a walking tour with interesting stories along the way.

Lunch in Piazza Navona - fountains, street artists, pasta al fresco.

Dinner Dar Sor Olimpio al Drago - classic Roman trattoria

Foodie highlight: Rome is the carbonara, cacio e pepe, and Fettuccine Alfredo capital so don’t skip a true Alfredo experience. Alfredo alla Scrofa, the birthplace of the original Fettuccine Alfredo- impossibly rich, creamy, and made candlelit table side with just butter and Parmigiano.

Tiramisu, Two Sizes is the best quick stop they offer two sizes of tiramisu to go.

Gelato at Giolitti the real Roman deal. Add whipped cream on top. Pay first then order.

Wander Campo di Fiore market for fresh fruit, flowers, people yelling (in the best way).

Sunset at Janiculum Terrace- city views forever.

Night: Court Bar, the chic cocktail bar at Palazzo Manfredi that overlooks the Colosseum. So moody, so Rome. It was listed in The World's 50 Best Bars for top tier cocktails and views. Dress code is smart-casual (think crisp pants, cute dresses. Steer clear of flip flops and guys wear pants.) Reservations are a must for the view.

Cocktails at Jerry Thomas Speakeasy

Quick breakfast at Antico Forno Roscioli : pastries to go for the airport ride.

Metro (or Uber) to Train to go to Fiumicino Airport. I was pleased to know I could walk to the Trastevere Train station after my Ubers kept canceling on me.

Back to the cities